Bali Hi

I just returned from heaven- Bali, Indonesia- where I spent my week-long March vacation from school. Indonesia is a collection of various islands and archipelagos. Bali is literally a small Hindu island in the middle of a sea of Islam (as Indonesia is the largest Muslim country in the world). Bali is the most popular destination in Indonesia for westerner visitors and I can absolutely see why. A pounding surf breaks against this tiny volcanic island, carpeted in emerald green rice terraces and dotted with distinctive temples and charming inhabitants. 

4 of my ETA friends and I journeyed a grueling 20 hours on plane, night bus, ferry, and taxi from the airport in east Java (where we got cheap flights on AirAsia- Asia’s discount airline- like Europe’s Ryan Air) to our destination of Ubud in central Bali. (Let’s just say that next time- and there will indeed be a next time- I hope to fly to Bali directly)

Ubud- Bali’s cultural hub- is known for its artistic, hippie-chic scene. Organic restaurants, live music, and art galleries mingle with ancient moss-covered stone temples and palaces. We stayed in a bungalow, hidden off of the main street behind a winding alley, amid quiet gardens and a large infinity pool. The main street in Ubud is Monkey Forest Road, because there is indeed a large forest inhabited by hundreds of mischievous macaques. Ubud is great for wandering in and out of eclectic shops and art galleries, where you can see beautiful examples of Indonesian batik, wood carving, painting, etc. Ubud is also a great place to take in a traditional Balinese dance performance. At night there are at least a half a dozen performances at various venues across the town, all performed by different dance troops in different Balinese dance styles. We attended a Kecak and fire dance. There were no musical instruments throughout the entire dance; instead men used chanting, sometimes singing, and various vocal tricks to provide the background sounds. About a hundred men, all ages, dressed in checkered sarongs with flowers in their hair stepped out into the open air temple complex and created a circle around a sort of enflamed stone chandelier on the ground. The dancers then emerged in elaborate costumes to perform the tale of the Ramayana- the famed Hindu romance epic, in which the monkey god helped Rama save his beloved Sita from the evil king Ravana. The story was followed by a trance dance, in which little girls danced with their eyes closed throughout the entire piece. The spectacle ended when they lit a pile of dried coconuts on fire and a man riding a wooden horse danced, barefoot, through the flames, splattering hot embers everywhere as he went. It was quite a good show.

One day in Ubud we hired a driver, which is a cheap and convenient way to see the Balinese countryside. We toured around central Bali for 8 hours stopping at places of interest along the way. We drove through miles of rice paddy terraces as we journeyed to various ancient temple sites. It is as if the land of Bali is carpeted in bright green. We saw the Kintamani volcano aka Gunung Batur, towering ominously above a small lakeside town, a thin veil of clouds enshrouding its peak. We took a coffee break, most appropriately, at a coffee plantation, where we were able to sample the famously thick black Balinese coffee grown and roasted right there, as well as the plantation’s special concoction of ginseng coffee, ginger tea, lemongrass tea, and hot chocolate- all grown on site. Besides growing coffee, herbs, spices, fruits, cocoa, macadamia nuts, vanilla beans, etc. the plantation also produces the infamous and lavishly priced kopi luwak. This delicacy is made from the beans of coffee berries which have been eaten by a small mammal creature called a civet then passed through the animal’s digestive track. This process imbues the still intact beans with a unique and prized aroma and provides, oddly enough, for a delicious brew. Other stops along our tour included a wood-carving studio, the ancient ‘elephant cave’ ruins hidden in the jungle, a silver-working factory, and many beautiful Hindu temples- including the mother temple- Besakih, the holiest place on the island.

Temples are ubiquitous in Bali, as are fragrant flowering trees. The most prized Balinese flower is the sweet, sexy-smelling frangipani. These divine white and yellow blossoms are called bunga japun in Bahasa Indonesia, and bunga kemboja in Bahasa Malaysia. Another Balinese bloom is the equally perfume-worthy cempaka flower. Flowers of every color and fragrance are scattered everywhere: tucked into the crevasses of statues, adorning the hair of Balinese women, and sprinkled in decorative patterns in ornamental water bowls. Flowers are abundant and the supply is refreshed daily.

Every day the spirits of Bali are presented with tiny canang sari - palm leaf trays containing of flowers, aromatic pandan leaves, incense, and rice as a token of hospitality. These offerings are placed not only around temples, but storefronts and sidewalks. These beautiful little bundles were virtually everywhere around Bali, and are again refreshed daily.

Did I mention we got massages? A glorious hour massage at an Ubud spa will set you back a whopping $9.

We hired our driver to take us from Ubud to Kuta- the tourist capital of Bali. On the way we made two amazing detours. We had a 3 hour visit of the Green School. I cannot say more positive things about Green School. Please check out their website: www.greenschool.org The Green School is an international school in Bali. What makes it special, among many other reasons, is the fact that it is almost entirely sustainable. The school buildings are made of bamboo, each class has their own garden (including the 3^rd graders’ pizza garden of vegetables and herbs meant for pizza toppings) and helps to care for a different set of animals living at the school (oh ya, did I mention the school also serves as a sanctuary and breeding center for a nearly-extinct species of bird). Toilets are compostable, food is organic (they have an awesome school café where I tried freshly-made strawberry bread), and they are beginning to harness hydroelectric power (they also have a methane gas extractor to use on animal and human waste). Bamboo classroom buildings are open air and instead of using pvc pipe white boards, they use recycled car and truck windshields. Fourth graders study human rights and kindergartners are encouraged to play in their purposefully-made mud-wrestling pit. The school embraces its location by celebrating Balinese culture throughout their curriculum, by providing Balinese student scholarship, employing local teachers and aids, and by using local building materials and products. The school has been gaining international attention (CNN, NY Times, BBC, ABC, etc.) not only for its green ideals and innovative educational philosophy, but also for its breathtaking bamboo architecture. From the moment we stepped on the school grounds and saw the students playing tug of war and rehearsing for the Wizard of Oz, we were in love. And after an almost 2 hour tour by the admissions director, we were getting business cards and asking about employment opportunities.

We also fell in love with our next detour on the way to Kuta. On the southwestern shore of Bali lies a collection of temples built upon rocks in the ocean- Pura Tanah Lot. The sun sets dramatically upon waves of mindboggling-size curls, behind the marooned temples. I cannot convey the scene as sufficiently as my photos can attest. Tanah Lot is, in fact, Bali’s most photographed sight…

Kuta was an entirely different experience. Partying all night; clubs were invaded by Australian surfer bros with tan bodies, blond hair and tank tops. These frat boys of the east stumbled drunkenly in and out of the club strips of Kuta, where the concept of a closing time seemed unworkable. We were made dizzy by the freely flowing shots of Arak- the local Balinese liquor, which some describe as palm-sugar firewater. Kuta nightlife offers everything from happy hour at an island dive, to sunset cocktails at a swanky lounge, and hours of techno dance beats at multilevel megaclubs (including the first gay club I’ve seen here in southeast Asia) to chill live music at a smoky Reggae club. Kuta, however, is lacking in daytime offerings.  The beach was teeming with vendors ready to pounce at tourists. You cannot even close your eyes for thirty seconds without being bombarded with sellers and their wares- ranging from massages to sarongs. Elderly women balance baskets of fruit atop their heads as young men try to lure you into a surfing lesson. The ocean, however, is not for swimming. The heartpoundingly huge waves are meant only for boards, and the waters are completely littered with trash. The Kuta beach was disappointing, but it was a good place to try some local cuisine. You can find some of Indonesia’s favorite dishes at the small food carts underneath the shady palm trees. 

So you may disregard my visit to Kuta, as I have done. And instead, focus on the picturesque Bali, the real Bali. The people, the scents, the volcanoes, the art, the temples, the rice paddies, the dancing, the taste of coffee, coconut, banana, vanilla bean…is this real life? 

 Nicest Starbucks ever.

 A lotus pond

Offerings to the gods of the island

 Beautiful Balinese woodcarving

 At the elephant caves site in the jungle

 Freshly roasting coffee beans

 Batur volcano

 Rice paddy terraces everywhere

 Sea, waterfall, rice paddy, volcano- Bali in a nutshell

 Balinese sunset

 Pura Tanah Lot

 Pura Tanah Lot

 Pura Taman Saraswati

Bali Babi and Other Foods

And now for my favorite part!

Bali is famous for its suckling pig- babi guling. Every foodie from Anthony Bourdain to the wide world of food bloggers has heard about Ibu Oka- a little warung (local restaurant) famous for its whole roasted pig, which you can witness being carved up- snout, curly tail, and all as you enter. Sitting on bamboo mats, rubbing elbows with locals and visitors alike, you will dine on a simple, yet elegant meal of pork goodness. The house special comes with the obligatory helping of rice, topped with a hefty serving of fatty, juicy pork, a piece of the crispy amber skin, a slice of sausage (the contents of which remain, thankfully, unknown), pork crackers (slightly reminiscent of Fritos), and a mixture of local green veggies in a light and slightly pickly sauce. I washed this deliciously satisfying meal down with an Indonesian drink of choice- Tehbotol: a smoky, sweet, almost overly-brewed bottled ice tea. Going to Ibu Oka fulfilled a) my desire to follow Anthony Bourdain (one of my idol’s) global food trail and b) my hankering for pig, after having been deprived of it in Malaysia (where I sometimes dream of my prosciutto-filled days in Rome). 

Another Balinese specialty (which brings me to my favorite category of food: dessert) is black rice pudding. The pudding is sickeningly sweet from a more than healthy dose of palm sugar, sometimes flavored with vanilla bean, and topped with thick coconut cream. This is rich- great with some unsweetened coffee.

Gado-gado is a food found all over Indonesia. Loaded with vegetables, it is a healthier alternative to a predominately fried cuisine. The sauce is the best part. Women use large mortals and pestles for the gado-gado sauce made-to-order. Peanuts are ground up and a chilli pepper (or two) is added for heat, as well as sugar, lime juice, and a little water to loosen the paste. The dish itself is comprised of green beans and sprouts combined with tofu and tempeh. Slices of glutinous sticky rice, which have been cooked in banana leaves, are added to the sauce-coated mixture. Yummy.

Bakso is a popular Indonesian dish. The bakso is a meatball made from beef, chicken, or fish and combined with tapioca flour making it light grey in color. Bakso is usually served in a soup with vermicelli noodles (meehoon), or yellow noodles (mee), salty vegetables, and chunks of fried tofu.

A popular Balinese snack is fresh snake fruit (Salak): a teardrop-shaped, the salak has a brown, scaly skin and a slightly bitter taste.